Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood RTW Spring 2023 – WWD
There is always a political message that comes with a Vivienne Westwood show, and this time it was all about the fight for a fair distribution of wealth and the rising cost of living in the U.K.
The designer herself did not travel to Paris because she wanted to stay in London to support a national day of strikes on the day of the show organized by the campaign “Enough Is Enough.”
The collection itself, the 14th one designed by her second husband Andreas Kronthaler, focused more on blurring the lines of gender, history and class with an ’80s retro touch.
That said, the look Bella Hadid wore to close the show, a power shoulder white jacket with sleeves rolled up showing matching fighting gloves, seemed to be something a TikTok generation human rights fighter would wear to a protest.
Overall, the collection playfully juxtaposed East London club kids energy with British historical garment references. There were beautiful evening numbers, especially the black and white one donned by Irina Shayk, as well as corset-inspired tops, suits that resembled plate armours, groupie T-shirts, tartan bombers, glittery knickers and knits, and a magnificent wedding gown with a giant cape worn by a male model. It reminded one of the cape Charles III might wear during his coronation.
Kronthaler is steadily pushing the brand toward a younger generation who might know little about its glorious punk origins. He not only is doing so by having stars like Doja Cat, Halsey and Evan Mock sit front row looking at mega models turning looks on the runway, but also by building a desirable wardrobe that stays true to him, and the world of Westwood.