“I’m a textile girl.” Maryam Nassir Zadeh brought some of her very first designs (some made with materials gifted by her good friend Susan Cianciolo) into her Lower East Side store to demonstrate that claim and show the continuity between her past and present work. Her fall 2024 collection is in part informed by a … Read more
Self-Portrait’s global appeal isn’t just about accessible price points; it’s designer Han Chong’s uncanny ability to synchronize with the spirit of the times while comprehending the tastes of his diverse clientele. Chong weaves geographical nuances into his creations, offering tailored precision to meet the varied preferences of different regions. That said, for his pre-fall collection, … Read more
Just a few years after launching his namesake brand, Benito Santos’s big break came in 2010, when Ximena Navarrete was crowned the new Miss Universe wearing a red gown made by the designer, becoming the second-ever Mexican to win the title after Lupita Jones in 1991. For his fall collection, which he showed at the … Read more
A new era begins for Kris Goyri. After two years of absence due to health complications, the designer returned to the runways this season with a collection titled La Vacación. Although pegged to the resort season, it is the first of Goyri’s single, annual collections, that will set the tone for the year—with extra “drops” … Read more
There is space enough in fashion for mavericks. That’s one of the key takeaways from a long Zoom with Madrid-based Ernesto Naranjo, whose fall 2024 collection has a sharply cadenced poetry, where circles, squares, and rectangles stand in for words. Naranjo has developed a sort of modular design system based on geometric shapes that he … Read more
The Peruvian designer Sandra Weil is an artist in spirit and a kind of painter by trade. The mix of natural elements is what moves her; her fall collection was titled Biolight, and was inspired by the concept of bioluminescence. “The starting point [of this collection] is the management of light and color,” she explained. … Read more
As usual, Domingo Rodríguez Lázar was inspired by Y2K nostalgia and the world of sports for the fall Dominnico collection. He was looking at après-ski style, reinventing ski suits into mini dresses, and experimenting with other pieces designed for the snow such as hats, vests, and cropped fur jackets, all in a palette of pinks … Read more
Yirantian Guo turned her fall 2024 showspace into a courtroom. Guests sat on wooden benches and had placed leather-bound briefings on each seat. If The Good Wife happened during Fashion Week, Guo’s show was exactly what that would look like. But Guo’s inspiration was not a fabricated character or a woman who exists only within … Read more
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After weeks of endless gray drizzle in London (but what’s new about that), it was a tonic to step into Duro Olowu’s colorful world on a particularly gloomy Tuesday afternoon. Seated inside a friend’s flat within a historic Chelsea apartment block, and with the blazing colors of an abstract Marina Adams painting as a backdrop, … Read more
