Maria Grazia Chiuri’s mood board for pre-fall is pinned with images of Marlene Dietrich in her signature tailored suits. The actress was a client of Christian Dior’s, and that connection appealed to Chiuri. She’s made a practice of studying not just the house founder’s archives, but also the women he dressed in her quest to … Read more
JJ Martin hasn’t taken any U turn towards minimalism, yet the La DoubleJ pre-fall vibe was slightly less effervescent and flamboyant than usual. Black-and-white? Statement-solids? Is there some genetic mutation going on at LaDoubleJ? “Evolution is our natural state as human beings,” the ever philosophical Martin reasoned. “We all need to evolve, and brands need … Read more
Last season, Roland Mouret spoke of growing demand among his clients for clothes that would dazzle at events and parties; for “ceremony” dressing, in other words. “It’s a category that people are really willing to invest in,” Mouret said at his studio in London’s Clerkenwell. “I feel like we were right to make that move … Read more
Pre-fall collections, reasoned Ian Griffiths, are about transitional pieces “that you dream of when summer holidays are almost over and you’re ready again for the buzz of the city, looking at the rentrée with anticipation and optimism.” The Max Mara designer was in for optimism—a sentiment the world is in dire need of today. One … Read more
Reem Acra is embracing the unconventional, or at least unconventional for her. While the designer is known for ball gowns often worn by royals and first ladies, this season she wanted to attract a younger clientele. “I went back to my archives to see what made me who I am and redid them in a … Read more
Phillip Lim was back on the runway in September for the first time in four years, with a collection that blended polish and utility in a way that seems particularly of New York. Denim in anything-but-your-average shapes, boxy men’s button-downs and slips, leggings with fold-over waistbands topped by midriff-baring shirts—running a business out of Great … Read more
For pre-fall, Batsheva Hay is keeping her eyes on the prize. “I’ve changed my approach to just be about what my person is going to buy right when the clothes are delivered in the summer,” she said at her husband’s photo studio, fresh off of shooting the season’s lookbook. “I’m not making one piece that … Read more
What do you wear when you’d rather wear nothing at all? That’s the question Interior’s Lily Miesmer and Jack Miner set out to answer with a pre-fall collection consisting of cotton poplin dresses, lace skirts, board shorts, and matching separates in lightweight fabrics. “Pre-fall is about creating clothes that you actually want to put on … Read more
“We’re trying to show people that we know how to make clothes,” said Lizzie Owens, Stella Ishii’s new designer at 6397 at a walkthrough of the label’s pre-fall lineup. Owens is a career designer who most recently served as Alexander Wang’s menswear director. Ishii is something of an IYKYK character in New York’s fashion landscape. … Read more
Tibi’s Amy Smilovic is nothing if not practical. Pre-fall is a summer collection, but she’s not making clothes for lounging around the Mediterranean (well, not just for that). “Our customer, she works. Summer is not just on a boat somewhere. We still have lots of stuff we have to get done,” she said. So, she … Read more
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