Filippo Grazioli surely likes a challenge. As creative director of a brand rooted in colors and patterns, he could easily address resort destinations with his pre-collections like some of his fellow designers. But he’s committed to bring the Missoni world to the metropolis instead, developing clothes imbued with a sleek urban attitude.
Grazioli aims to match the dynamism of the big city with a sense of ease and spontaneous approach to dressing, which are proving to be pillars of his vision for the fashion house.
For pre-fall 2024, these elements shined in the brand’s signature knitwear but also in the everyday tailoring that has infiltrated the Missoni language. The deconstructed suits were among the highlights of this focused collection: their lightweight structure and relaxed fit exuded a cool, nonchalant vibe while affirming the Missoni identity through the distinctive zigzag motif.
Other winners included zippered graphic polo shirts and matching skirts, which were enlivened with Lurex threads but still oozed quotidian flair with their overall sporty attitude. Doubling as an essential sleeveless top, a colorful minidress worn over loose pleated pants could ferry the Missoni woman from office to dance floor.
Keeping the silhouettes simple and slender, Grazioli juxtaposed body-hugging shapes with oversize cardigans, such as the multicolored one in the Caperdoni pattern that made for a cozy statement piece to layer over any outfit — or just bare legs.
Zigzag coats with detachable faux-fur collars in maxi proportions also had the potential to attract both Milanese “sciura” ladies and their daughters, while the candy-hued faux-fur coat that closed the lineup on a ‘70s glam note was all about facing city life with big character energy.
